An Ungodly Excess of Choice.

It’s becoming increasingly apparent to me that here in London, and quite possibly in a great many cities around the World, we as baristas are giving our customers too much choice.

A strange idea, right? Surely an abundance of choice is indicative of a considerate approach to the people who frequent our cafes and coffeebars, surely having a ‘good range’ is an indicator that we’re receptive and attentive to the needs and desires of a great many people. Wrong.

Let’s consider the primary basis of everything that we construct, and use it as a starting point for this idea — the espresso.

I’m a very firm believer in Kyle Glanville‘s ethos that states: “There is only one correct response to a customer ordering an espresso – ‘Absolutely.’” More and more, in what I can only assume is a misguided attempt to show flexibility, dexterity, and awareness, when ordering espresso I’m greeted with the choice of a range of options — Single or double? Ristretto? For here or to go? The same applies for nearly any milk drink ordered — Skinny or whole milk? 8 or 12oz, Single or double… again?

Perhaps I ought to rephrase my ordering, to what it is that I actually mean when communicating with a cafe staff member. When I order an espresso, what I’m actually doing is putting my trust in that person, that they’ve taken the time and care to get to know their coffee, and are pulling shots of it to the best standard they can. If that’s a split-double at 25s, then fantastic! If it’s a slightly slower, naked shot of 1.5oz, great! As long as they know their coffee, and have put some thought into the best possible way to serve it, then I’m more than happy to be taken along for the ride.

That being said, should their understanding of the process entail a super-heated shot glass, with a micro-espresso of Vegemite-like texture and bitterness, updosed to buggery and pulled from a dirty machine, then fine. Serve it. I’ll drink it. But I’m unlikely to be coming back.

So, let’s bring all this back to the everyday customer, and their interactions with coffeebar staff. I should preface this section by saying that in my mind, it is of absolutely utmost importance that the person who takes your order, is intimately involved with producing your drink. That person ought to be informed, educated, passionate, and most importantly brimming with confidence to take stewardship of the customer’s order, drink and overall experience. Till operators and cashiers are all good and well, but I can’t help but attest that if we continue to further remove the link between customer, barista and drink, then we have little chance of professionally and effectively guiding the customer through the retail transaction. But why should that matter?

The customer should not be in control.

In the same way that it’s abhorrent to think of customers pulling their own shots, or steaming their own milk, the onus for controlling a plethora of elements of the drink’s construction should be taken away from the customer, and given back to the barista.

If a customer orders a cappuccino, great! For Here or To Go matters, obviously, but beyond that a set of defaults — your best operating practice, if you will — should be employed immediately. I’m not here to dictate what a cappuccino should be in each and every coffeebar (I have my opinons on this, but that’s not really the point here), but what I will contend is that each shop should know and truly believe in what they consider to be the absolute best representation of a cappuccino, and serve that.

I could continue ad infinitum on why I believe that the majority of choice ought to be wrested from the hands of customers, but let me conclude with some questions:

How can we expect Tom from Accounting, or Helen from I.T. to have anywhere near the required or desired understanding of the drinks being created in our coffeebars? How can we conscientiously employ, train, and trust baristas, but then turn over such a wealth of influence to uneducated and uninformed consumers? How can we scoff at or bemoan customers with terrible orders, when we actively present them with the palette from which to create them?

Of course some people will prefer soy, or extra-hot, or weak, or whatever… But let them request it. Force them to actively seek out whether or not you can accommodate their particular preferences. And for the majority of customers, simply remain confident, in control and encouraging. And serve to them that which you believe to be your best.

After all, your barista is supposed to be a professional, and should live up to the expectations of one.